Sunday 1 April 2018

Punta Palmas Lighthouse, "El Palmar"

The Punta Palmas lighthouse is generally known by its nickname, El Palmar, and is located near the northwestern corner of the Yucatan peninsula.  The lighthouse actually sits within the Reserva Estatal El Palmar, a protected wetlands site recognized and designated on November 27, 2003 as one of 10 new Ramsar sites with a total area of 777,814 hectares. This is a very important development of the implementation of the Ramsar Convention in Mexico, boosting its Ramsar sites number to 17, and reaching 1,881,790 ha of Ramsar sites in the country; El Palmar is Ramsar site number 1328.  (More about this at the end of this article.)

I was unable to determine the exact date of construction of the lighthouse but it appears to have been around 1950.  The lighthouse is actively used, with two white flashes every 10 seconds.  The masonry tower is 39 metres (128 feet) high.  This was Mexico's tallest traditional lighthouse (the modern Gran Puerto de Cancun tower is taller).  In fact, it is the tallest lighthouse of Middle America, but the remote location has kept it relatively unknown.





In dry weather, you can drive from Celestun to El Palmar in an hour. Calle 12, the beach road, is also federal highway 281.  It leaves Celestun to the north and turns to gravel after 2km.  You pass by Playa Maya Resort 5 kms later then XiXim Eco Resort after another 4km.  The road is only sand and becomes VERY narrow after this, with twists and HUGE holes here and there so the drive is slow.  You wind through the low scrub, mangroves, salt flats, and eventually come more into the open along the Gulf coast as Punta Palmas lighthouse comes into view.







There are a few homes before and after the lighthouse, something like a small hotel and a new hotel
Roger and the Lighthouse Keeper
under construction.  We parked outside the roped off driveway and strolled around shooting some photos before going under the rope and approaching the front of the lighhouse keeper's house, essentially the base of the lighthouse.  I called out and a man came out to greet us.  Although he spoke Spanish, we were unable to fully capture his name which sounded more Eastern European.  After a bit of a chat we asked about climbing up into the lighthouse.  With a comment that there were 177 steps, he asked us to follow him into his home and through a doorway to the bottom of the spiral lighthouse stairs where he pointed the way for us to continue on our own.

The concrete stairs were in good condition, all within a concrete structure.  Everything is painted white and covered in cement and/or white paint dust.  Be prepared to have white marks all over your clothing.  Wooden window frames here and there along the stairs were badly weathered and falling off of rusted hinges, and glimpses out of them revealed gradually more breath-taking views as we climbed higher.























The last couple of stairs have VERY low headroom (found this out the hard way) and they end on a small landing with a wooden ladder poking up through a small hole for the last 10 feet or so.  The ladder turned out to be quite solid but there is nothing to grab hold of as you climb up (or back down) through the floor opening so some caution is required.








You come out of the ladder opening into a small space in the top of the lighthouse, surrounding the bottom of the actual rotating light.  A small doorway opens out onto a concrete outside platform allowing you to walk around the top of the lighthouse.  The views are spectacular with the Gulf of Mexico on one side and wetlands, salt flats and mangroves on the other.




Facing North-East from the top of Punta Palmas Lighthouse
Looking South-West from the top of Punta Palmas Lighthouse


The view West from the top of Punta Palmas Lighthouse

There is a sign on the property explaining the Ramsar designation of El Palmar as a State Reserve.

Ramsar is the oldest of the modern global intergovernmental environmental agreements. The treaty was negotiated through the 1960s by countries and non - governmental organizations concerned about the increasing loss and degradation of wetland habitat for migratory waterbirds. It was adopted in the Iranian city of Ramsar in 1971 and came into force in 1975.

The El Palmar site lies on the northwestern coast of the Yucatán peninsula and features mangroves, seagrass beds and tidal flats, as well as coastal dune vegetation, petenes (emerging islands of forests protected from saline intrusions), sinkholes or cenotes, swamp forests and low deciduous forest. El Palmar harbours a significant population of Greater Flamingos Phoenicopterus ruber, and 15 duck species have been recorded. The site also provides nesting ground for the endangered Hawksbill turtle Eretmochelys imbricata, for which a nest survey and liberation programme is underway. Fishing, agriculture, hunting and palm leaf collection are the main economic activities, which also represent the main potential threats to the site. Federal, state and municipal authorities as well as NGOs, communities and academic institutions participate in a board that manages the reserve. Training, restoration and awareness activities have been carried out successfully in Ramsar site no. 1328.

Monday 15 May 2017

Get Outta Town: Experience the Yucatan State



This is a 30 minute ABC7 Special about Yucatan, Mexico promoting the area.  Beautiful photography and great information about everything Mayan, food, cenotés, culture.  Enjoy!

Wednesday 24 February 2016

Buying Fresh Fish in Celestun



You would think, living in a fishing village where the majority of the residents are fishermen that go out fishing daily in hundreds of fishing boats, in a town where 99% of the menu items in every little beach restaurant is seafood, in a community where almost the entire economy is based on catching, processing and selling seafood, you would think, wouldn't you, that it would be easy to buy fresh seafood?

You would expect that every little local market would have dozens of tables piled high with the catch of the day.  And every local fisherman with a corner store in his family (half the town it seems) would have fresh fish, shrimp, octopus, crab, etc.,,etc., piled high for their customers every day.  Wouldn't you expect that?

Actually none of our markets or stores have fresh seafood available.  Most of the fishermen use boats and equipment owned by two large, and several smaller, fish plants in town and everything they catch, except a small portion for personal use, must go to them.  The one exception, recently introduced to us, is a Bodega on Calle 4 on the edge of the marina that sells to the public.

The day we checked it out was after two days of stormy weather, a Norte had been keeping the fisherman on shore.  So they didn't have much seafood on hand other then some nice Robalo.

"The common snook (Centropomus undecimalis) is aspecies of marine fish in the family Centropomidae of the order Perciformes. The common snook is also known as the sergeant fish or robalo."






On another day when we wanted fish, we had our local friend Beto take us around in his taxi to this fish bodega and several others.  It was later in the day and everyone was out of fish except for one unsigned bodega where Beto knew the people.  We would NEVER have found this place without this help and were lucky enough to buy his HUGE Snapper.  Chris grilled it up whole on our barbecue and it was a fantastic meal!
Huge Snapper we bought at a Celestun fish bodega


Birding with David Bacab


My November 26, 2015 blog "Birding around Celestun", was my first day out birdwatching with David Bacab.  Because my friend and fellow avid photographer, Diane, was visiting us last week, we booked a day with David again last Saturday.

Golden-fronted Woodpecker
Our itinerary was similar to our last birding day, other than David taking us to a couple of new sites this time at my request to change some locations, just to see some new areas.

It was a fun day with our best sightings early in the morning as usual, the birds less active and harder to find as the day warmed.  In addition to the Chunchukmil road, we explored around the town cenote (where Celestun gets the town water from), an old quarry area, and some sea shore locations north of Celestun amongst the salt flats.

Pedro was our driver again, following us in the van when we walked, and putting out our breakfast an hour or so into the day (fresh fruit, bread, cheese, juice, coffee).

Here's the list of birds we spotted, with a further selection of my photos below:
  1. Grey-necked Woodrail
  2. Pygmy Kingfisher
  3. Green Jay
  4. White Ibis
  5. Great Egret
  6. Boat-billed Heron
  7. Tricoloured Heron
  8. Snowy Egret
  9. Wood Stork
  10. Great Black Hawk
  11. Tropical Kingbird
  12. Tropical Mockingbird
  13. Vermilion Flycatcher
  14. Social Flycatcher
  15. Kiskadee
  16. Canivets Emerald Humminbird
  17. Cinnamon Hummingbird
  18. Ruby-throated Hummingbird
  19. Mexican Sheartail Hummingbird
  20. Orange Oriole
  21. Hooded Oriole
  22. Altamira Oriole
  23. Rose-breasted Grosbeak
  24. Mangrove Vireo
  25. White-eyed Vireo
  26. Northern Parula
  27. White-lored Gnatcatcher
  28. White Pelican
  29. Brown Pelican
  30. Cormorant
  31. Chachalaca
  32. Yucatan Bobwhite
  33. Turquoise-browed Motmot
  34. Olive-throated Parakeet
  35. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher
  36. Golden-fronted Woodpecker
  37. Yucatan Woodpecker
  38. Tropical Pewee
  39. Yellow Warbler
  40. Black Mangrove Warbler
  41. Groove-billed Ani
  42. Red-winged Blackbird


 


 






















Saturday 5 December 2015

Residente Permanente

For the past 10 years, we have been travelling to Mexico on a tourist visa.  This is the visa form that you fill out on the plane and they give you a small part to keep with your passport until you leave the country and give that back to them.

As we have never stayed for more than 6 months, so far, the tourist visa has worked just fine for us. Many of our friends here have had what used to be called FM-2 visas (now called residente temporal) and FM-3 visas (now called residente permanente) but they are generally living here full-time or at least longer than 6 months.

The rules around visas, as far as how to apply, why you need one, what benefits it provides, all have changed a few times over the past decade.  We have heard stories from people not being able to get one, to visas expiring and they have to leave the country, to others who have never had an issue with them.  So, the thought of applying for a resident visa of any kind was a little worrisome as I expected some difficulty at the very least.  Regardless, about a year ago we decided to look into the whole visa thing a little closer, especially now that all the rules have changed yet again.

Now that we are retired, it is very possible that we may want to stay here longer than 6 months, or even for several years.  So it would be nice to have that option at least, rather than trying to go through the application process after arriving at a situation where we suddenly need it.  I also saw some other potential advantages to having residency.

It used to be that you could not have a bank account here without a resident visa but that has apparently been relaxed.  But, the way they keep changing rules around here, it still seems like a better idea to have residency before trying to get a bank account, credit card, etc.

Car ownership is possible without residency but not registration and insurance.  Luckily, we have a sharing arrangement with a permanent resident for car use, but when that one wears out, what next?

If you have a Residente Permanente card, your Notary may approve you for the Home-owners exemption from paying the 25% gains tax on a future sale of your Mexican home – a potential savings of $10′s – $100′s thousands of dollars.

The new residente temporal visa would cover most of our current needs, but you have to renew it annually, (at a cost and with the inconvenience of paperwork, appointments, etc.) and eventually have to get the residente permanente visa.  And now, you can apply directly for the residente permanente visa without needing the temporary one first, so we decided to go straight to that.

The process starts back in Canada, at the Mexican Consulate nearest your home.  For us, it was the Mexican Consulate in Vancouver.  Not speaking very much Spanish, this website was a difficult place to begin.  However, down along the left-hand side there is one English phrase, "Consular Services for Foreigners".  Clicking here takes you to a partially English section and then you can click on the second choice, "VISAS".   This takes you to yet another page with a variety of choices, (all in English, luckily) and you can click on "PERMANENT RESIDENT VISAS".  This will take you to the following clear and simple instructions to begin your resident application process.

PERMANENT RESIDENT VISA

Foreigners who wish to remain in Mexico indefinitely may apply in person for a Permanent Resident Visa at the Consular Office closest to their place of residence.

REQUIREMENTS:

1. Visa application form printed on one page, double-sided, properly completed and signed.
2. Valid passport or travel and identity document, original and a photocopy of the page containing the photograph and personal data.
3. Original and a photocopy of the migratory document accrediting your legal stay in Canada (only for applicants who are not Canadian citizens).
4. One photograph measuring 3.9 cm x 3.1 cm, face uncovered, no eyeglasses, frontal view, in colour and with white background.
5. Payment of fees in cash for the issuance of the visa.
Applicants must also present the following documents, depending on the category under which they are applying:

a. Retirees or Pensioners:

1. Original and a photocopy of investment receipts or bank account statements showing an average monthly balance equivalent to $117,628.00 Canadian dollars during the last twelve months, or
2. Original and a photocopy of proof of tax-free monthly income from pensions in an amount greater than $2,941.00 Canadian dollars during the past six months.


At the bottom of this web page there is a link to download and open the actual visa application form, in Spanish or English.  You can type into the form on your computer then print it to sign it and bring it in with you to your appointment which you have to phone to arrange.  When we called, they were able to see us within a couple of weeks.

Rather than bring in 12 investment statements for each of us, we decided to get a letter from our investment advisor confirming our average balance to be above the minimum requirement.  This saved us having to bring in a huge stack of paperwork, and also kept our financial affairs more private. This turned out to be the preferred method as the woman we dealt with at the consulate was most appreciative of this as it saved her a lot of work.

We had to wait about half an hour before they saw us and we dealt with one woman at a wicket who went through all of the material we brought, glued our photo to an application, then promptly took a new photo of us.  I have no idea why.  After this we waited a short time again before being ushered in together to have an interview with the Consulate General.

This was a very short, friendly and relaxed interview.  He asked us why we wanted to live in Mexico, did we have family there, did we own property there, did we like the food.  Then he said welcome to Mexico, shook our hand, and we were out the door.

My "slightly modified" visa
We either had to return in a couple of days to pick up our passports, or leave them a pre-paid Canada Post Express envelope, which is what we did.  About three days later our passports were returned to us with our entry visa pasted into it.

Entry Visa "Canje" for 30 days







We left on a flight to Mexico about two months later and completed the standard visa application on the plane in the same way as usual.  But when we went through the immigration desk, we had to show them our new visa in the passport and request that they check-mark "Canje" on the application and mark that we had only 30 days entry allowed.  This actually allows you 30 days before continuing your residente permanente application at the nearest INM immigration office.





Before leaving Canada, I had time to think about all of the horror stories of delays and problems I had heard about over the years regarding trying to arrange resident visas.  So I decided to try and improve our experience by contacting Yucatan Expat Services (Y.E.S.) in Merida.  Our contact there was Pamela Lopez.

Y.E.S.  Yucatan Expatriate Services office in Merida
We arranged to meet with her the day after we arrived and brought along all of her requested information and yet some more (abnormally small) photos of us.  For $190 USD each, they would present our application and streamline the entire process and guide us through whatever we needed to know and do, go to the interview with us and, do all of the waiting in line for us.  It seemed almost too good to be true!

The arrival in Mexico and getting our visa marked Canje went all as smooth as she said it would be. We stayed overnight in Merida at our favourite boutique hotel, Luz en Yucatan, then took a taxi to Pamela's office the next morning.

Pamela spoke perfect English as did her assistant Michelle.  We completed the application form with her, paid half of her fee, and also gave her the 4,289 pesos each for the residente permanente fee, and that was it.  Nothing else to do now but wait.

Michelle and Pamela of Y.E.S. 
A couple of weeks later, Pamela emailed me to say that our application was approved and we needed
to go into Merida for our appointment at the INM office.

We met first at Pamela's office and Michelle accompanied us to INM.  After signing in and passing through a security checkpoint, we entered the INM building and joined a couple dozen other people crowded into a tiny waiting room.

The INM immigration office in Merida
We were called in only 10 minutes after our actual appointment time (a minor miracle in Mexico!) and Michelle went in with us, one at a time.
Chris went first and just 5 minutes later I was called in. I sat in a chair across a desk from a woman entering info into her computer and chatting in Spanish with Michelle.  And then I provided them with a full set of fingerprints, and, I was done!  No questions or interview.  Our visas were fully approved at this point and we were given temporary paper versions of our residente permanente cards with the permanent plastic cards to be ready in 3 business days.

Michelle emailed us a few days later to say that they had picked up our new residente permanente cards and we could come in to her office any time to pick them up.  We dropped by the following week, paid them the balance of their fee, got our cards, and here we are; permanent resident status!
Residente Permanente!

I would HIGHLY recommend the services of Yucatan Expat Services.  Their help and guidance was wonderful and their small fee saved us at least that much just in gas back and forth to Merida, never mind the frustration of standing in lines, trying to communicate in our poor Spanish, maybe returning again and again because we filled something out wrong.  I have rarely had anything go so smoothly even in Canada, never mind in Mexico where we get used to multiple appointments and long waits.

Y.E.S. provide numerous services for expats that many of you may find useful, so do check out their website for more information.